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About Montauroux

Côtes de Provence

Interesting observations from Jim Budd about Provence rosé. One - that most Provence rosé growers are  "completely stupid" for not using screw caps - only 4 out of 80 used them. Jim's argument is that it's just a a darn sight easier. Two, that the same Provence rosé growers are being silly about getting upset over the mix up red and white to get rosé debate.

Still, Jim does prefer wines from the Loire region.

Rosé debate rumbles on

More grumblings regarding rosé production - this time from Anjou. "The debate threatens to re-ignite a much wider, and more explosive, argument on the nature of wine itself. Is wine a mysterious product of soil, soul, weather, grapes, sweat and tradition? Or is it an industrial product for mass-consumption like any other?"

The answer - label real rosé as "traditional": "when news of the decision began to circulate, pink grapes of wrath fermented in Provence and Anjou. "Real" rosé wines could be marketed under a new label: "traditional rosé". Blended or "fake", rose wines would have to be labelled "rosé coupé" or "rosé de coupage." But, claim producers, "it should not be for us to have to rename our wine. If the others want to label their bottles 'rosé made from jumbling up red and white', that's fine."

The debate threatens to re-ignite a much wider, and more explosive, argument on the nature of wine itself. Is wine a mysterious product of soil, soul, weather, grapes, sweat and tradition? Or is it an industrial product for mass-consumption like any other?

Bandol stinks

Fascinating article from San Francisco about Brettanomyces, a fungus that imparts certain odours to certain wines, it appears. The wine cited by the author happens to be a Bandol: " vividly remember the first Château Pradeaux I tasted. This mourvèdre-based red from the region of Bandol in France's Provence had the distinct odour of a horse-filled barn. When I served the wine to a friend, he looked up, smiling, and pronounced his judgement: "This smells like s--t.""

Rose de Provence rows

Cotes de Provence appellation controlee is so upset that Rose de Provence is being used by PGA to describe its new wine that the case is now with the French fraud office.

"Provence’s largest AOC union, Côtes de Provence, has accused local firm PGA Domaines of “stealing” the region’s name for its new Rosé de Provence wine. Rules prevent wine brands in France from using any part of an existing AOC name."

Experts believe the rose row is part of a broader debate about the creation of one regional AOC to cover the whole of Provence.

A uniquely french debate.

Cotes de Provence Rose for summer drinking

Apparently Rose wine sales have overtaken sales of white in France. Initially, this would appear shocking until you remember that French people don't drink much white. The Wine Enthusiast picks out three Cotes de Provence for special attention:

  • Château Les Valentines 2006
  • Domaine Sorin 2006 Terra Amata
  • Domaine Saint-André de Figuière 2006 Vieilles Vignes

Provence organic wine

Having sat through Mondovino, which rants against Robert Parker's undue influence over world wine rankings, I was interested to see Mr. Parker speak up for Provence's organic wine output in Business Week.

Personally, I am not certain I could tell the difference.

I do however recommend Mondovino as a fine expose of the commercial undergrowth in the wine trade.

Provence Rouge

Bring me a bottle of Red (wine, that is). In Winnipeg, Le Rouge is idolised for its life-extending qualities & I quote in full, it's sooooo good;

"The scientific community first noticed the potentially positive effects of red wine while trying to determine why French people lived so damn long. Researchers studying lifestyle risk factors soon realized that, according to their data, no one in France should be alive past the age of 12. The French, of course, do absolutely everything wrong in terms of lifestyle and yet live as long as or longer than the rest of us. Everything they eat is covered in thick creamy sauces, they serve wine with breakfast and most people in France start smoking before they are three.

Startled scientists soon noted that the pate-stuffed, wine-soaked chain smokers of Provence were outliving the fish-eating Vikings of Sweden and loving every minute of it. “Impossible” they squealed when confronted with the evidence, “how could this be?”"

Oregon State University came up with the research: a gene called SIRT1 can reduce the development of new fat cells and increase the metabolism of fat within existing cells. The activity level of this gene can be significantly enhanced when a compound commonly found in red wine is present. The compound, identified as resveratrol, is an anti-oxidant found in high concentrations in grape skins.

I am switching to Provence Rouge.

Rosé

It's official. I'm an adventurous hipster who likes challenging tastes, according to the Chicago Sun-Times.

And what, dear reader, are you?

Rosé wine sales rocket

Beveragedaily.com (where else?) comments on the huge uptake of Rosé wine - a Provence staple. 7% market in the UK, apparently. And the French downed 138m bouteilles.

How to pronounce wine

I have discovered a whole industry dedicated to pronouncing wine correctly - especially French. I have long believed that people don't buy Burgundy because of the unpronounceability of appellations such as Pernand-Vergelesses or Puligny-Montrachet. The classic case is Pouilly-Fuisse, which stymies all but most fluent of francophones.

It's obvious I suppose that this creates a market opportunity and I have found a whole page dedicated to it. Provence still poses difficulties and, bizarrely, has two versions, depending on context:

  • Provence (The vineyard region of the French Riviera) is pronounced "Pro-vengss"
  • Cotes de Provence (The wine region of Provence) is pronounced "Koht duh Pro-vawnss"

I guess the nuance could be spotted by an oenologist. I enjoyed "">Koht duh Broo-yee" and "Zhev-ray Shawn-bair-ten" (which doesn't quite work) and "B'yeng-vuh-nu " (the Puligny as opposed to the Vietnamese village, that is).

For a broader perspective, I offer also offer up How to Pronounce French, German, and Italian Wine Names by Diana Bellucci, who is making a career of it!

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