Best guidebooks


  • Time Out's relaxed & reasurringly candid style is well researched and well-informed.

  • Dorling Kindersley's colourful collection of pictures and maps offers an upmarket collection of area-by-area things to do & itinaries.

  • The classic Michelin guide. Great overview, maybe lacking in the detail a focussed traveller will look for.

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Best fiction about Provence

I am still looking. Here's a working list:

Tender is the Night by Scott Fitzgerald

The story of Dick and Nicole Divers, rich Americans holding court in their villa on the French Riviera during the 1920s. Into their circle comes Rosemary Hoyt, a film star, who is instantly attracted to them, but understands little of the dark secrets and hidden corruption that bind them. Luxurious, well-written prose and a gripping, emotional drama. It depressed me, but you have to read these books.

A Good Year by Peter Mayle

Recently fired City lad inherits chateau and vineyard in Provence (the far side). Trouble is: there's some dodgy goings on with the wine and it's not clear who owns the house. Innocent fun in the grand Peter Mayle tradition - almost the ideal Provence holiday read.

Jean de Florette and Manon les Sources by Marcel Pagnol

What can I say? Fantastic (& simple) tale of passionate, enlightened hunchback who is cheated of his spring by local peasants. The sequel, set 10 years, later is the story of the daughter's revenge. Oozes Provence.

Super-Cannes by JG Ballard

Dark, well-written conspiracy based on Sofia-Antipolis and offbeat englishman who challenges the system. Full of local destinations and, I hope, a fictionalised version of the seamier side of some of those places between Nice & Cannes.

Death in the truffle wood by Pierre Magnan

Charming, quirky who's been killing people in the truffle woods whodunnit. Great provencal feeling & full of local colour, folklore, habits etc - set around Banon.

Perfume by Patrick Susskind

Well, not really full on Provence, but partly set in Grasse, self-styled "perfume capital of the world". Marvellous, rich, fantastical story of man with the perfect sense of smell - but yet has no smell himself. An all-time favourite of the author.

The fly truffler by Gustaf Sobin

Haven't read it, but it makes the cut. Poetic and short. Professor who lives & breathes Provence grieves for dead wife via truffle-induced dreams.

The Rock Pool by Cyril Connolly

Allegedly cult novel from allegedly cult writer about unpleasant man who gets corrupted by risque bohemians on the French Riviera. Again, apologies, but not read.

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