Provence from Fayence: Provence Guide

Verdon suicides

The spectacular Gorges du Verdon high up in Provence are popular for suicides. But the local authorities are fighting back & have cleaned 20 tonnes of metal from the Gorges.

With classic Gallic charm, the manager in charge said: “This is a centre for suicides in France. I suppose it’s a sign of their attachment to the gorges that they want to finish their lives there.”

Mons casse-cul

Mons in Provence has some entertainingly curious and charming street names. Most of the streets aren't big enough to be called streets, so we run with "ruelles". Many of them get local Patois names as well as French.

This is our favourite. Our literal translation would be "break your behind street" - it's steep and narrow. Our best-guess, functional translation would be "mind your a*se".

Provence photographs

I have discovered Flickr as a vehicle for sharing my humble collection of Provence photographs. There are many of the village of Mons (and of our rental property). Enjoy!

Michael Jackson on the Riviera

Michael Jackson, the recording artist known for his unexpected tastes, is holidaying on the French Riviera - dressing as a woman.

I felt like that once when I visited St. Tropez. I wore a bandana.

Provencale cuisine

I loved the sound Annie from this interview so much, that I am giving it a plug:

"Are the French nasty? Annie Jacquet-Bentley says that's nothing but a myth. In fact, she swears the sun's always shinning over her chalet in Provence. The celestial orb, she says, pumps up their personalities — the natives smile, they nap at midday, they drink wine and eat well.

"Provence is blessed by the gods for 365 days a year," says Jacquet-Bentley. "It could be raining elsewhere, but not in Provence. It's always sunny. It's not like that in New York or Philadelphia where everyone's stressed out."

Learn Provencale cuisine at Annie's Kitchen in the Vaucluse.

Peter Mayle's Good Year

Amusing article in the Times with Peter Mayle, discussing life in Provence and generally promoting A Good Year (the one directed by Ridley Scott and starring Russell Crowe). Here's some nuggets:

* “Russell Crowe seemed an odd choice,” (Mayle) admits. “I thought more Hugh Grant. Russell normally has very macho parts slicing people’s heads off ’s Gladiator. But in this film there is no rape or disembowelment; the most violent movement is pulling a cork from a bottle.”

* "The countryside (in Provence) is so ravishing it was just a point and squirt job"

"“London is now very edgy, but who wants that? Whenever I come back I find it noisier, dirtier and more ethnically mixed.”  (We can all relate to this.)

* Other than writing, drinking and observing, his days are spent tending to his 200 olive trees: “We farm them at an exorbitant cost. It would be cheaper to fly the olives over from Fortnum’s.”  (Having 300 myself, I empathise fully).

Salade nicoise

Salade nicoise is one of those quintessential Provencale dishes. If there's one salad we all can make, it's a good old salade nicoise. Or can we? My man in Crillon has unearthed a reputable article by former Parisienne chef-trainer turned gourmet CSI investigator.

No tuna, it appears, in the nicoise. The potatoes are questionable. The culinary debate rages with Escoffier, the Larousse and all sorts of other dignitaries at odds over what should go in it. She concludes:

"For anyone who is brave enough to dive into the argument, here's a starting recipe for salade Nicoise.Tomatoes are the main ingredient. Hard-cooked egg and anchovies are entirely correct. Salt and olive oil are above reproach. As for the black olives, basil, mint, tuna, vinegar, potatoes, artichokes, onions, green bell peppers, lima beans, cucumber, radishes, garlic or garlic-rubbed croutons, celery, green beans, tarragon, chervil, chives, mustard ... you're on your own."

Sarah says I add too much oil, but I've always winged it.