I am grateful to Stephen Clarke - author of A Year in the Merde - who, in his quest for some peaceful & quiet corners of Provence, recommends: "Beyond...the promontory below St Tropez, truly unspoilt coastline is almost impossible to find, so you have to select the most civilised bits." Thankfully, his next civilised bit is past Nice, in Eze. Mr. Clarke completely passes over Fayence and Seillans, which I regard as the "best bits".
He loves it, though: "Nevertheless, for me, the Côte d’Azur does act as a kind of drug. Taking it in July and August is a heady experience, but it can cause side effects such as hot flushes and road rage, not to mention bankruptcy. Out of season, though, as long as the mistral isn’t blowing, it almost always hits the spot. In spring and autumn, it is practically guaranteed to produce a glowing rush of pure wellbeing."